The exhibition at this season’s SS20 London Fashion Week really pushed forward brands that are leading the way in sustainable business practice within the industry, from the likes of Hanna Fiedler and her use of traditional, locally based, tailoring methods and Ancuta Sarca’s upcycled footwear to Paolo Carzana’s ethos to work with nature – not against it. Carzana uses reconstituted fabrics and materials made from natural sources such as pineapple leaves.
Looking to the designers of the future the exhibition also featured recent graduates, these included sustainable knitwear designer Hannah Stote and Janislav Solovjob with his collection created from 100% natural fabrics using sustainable technologies in garment engineering and manufacturing.
In terms of silhouettes and key styles going forward into Spring/Summer 2020 two very distinctive camps, both with a heavy nod towards the early 1990’s, became apparent as the event unfolded. The first was all about a second-skin, the body-con look that Alaia pioneered a quarter of a century ago. Newcomer Nensi Dojaka revealed skimpy, barely-there, lingerie inspired designs in sheer, muted tones, while Dom Sebastian’s stretchy dresses and tops featured his experimental, vibrant prints that have a Dali-esque, surrealist feel. Elsewhere Paula Knorr poured her models into super light sequins and metallics in streamline styles that often reveal a shoulder or two. And super-fine knitwear specialist Mark Fast presented his take of the figure-hugging boob tube and fitted pencil skirt combo.
The second leading trend to emerge for the season was reminiscent of Armani’s soft tailored suits that were all the rage back in the early 90’s. Tailoring was prevalent on and off the catwalk from relaxed, single-breasted styles as seen at EFTYCHIA and Margaret Howell, to oversized double-breasted jackets as seen at Roland Mouret. This mood was echoed by Fashion Week attendees with neutral shades of white, beige, camel and rust being the most popular.
London Fashion Week SS20 – 13th – 17th September 2019